A true Pilgrimage

On Tuesday I had the absolute privilege to travel to two beautiful places. One an old Roman ruin, and the other the Virgin Mary's final house. Both steeped in history, both had tangible effects on my heart and my soul.

We left Istanbul very early, our transfer bus picked us up a little after 5am. Usually this wouldn't be too bad, but there were a few cordials shared at a local establishment with some excellent friends made on our ANZAC tour. Our eventful taxi trip, where we were expected to pay a figure five times as much as we paid the night before, still hung in our minds. We held our own and eventually settled on the correct price. These proceedings only happened a few short hours ahead of our pick up. However with a few brain cells missing and a little lost sleep we headed on our new journey.

We had a short flight on an airline that made Jetstar look 5 star. This was fine as we were only in the air for forty five minutes. We landed in Izmir airport and started our journey to the ancient town of Ephesus. Once there we were instantly in awe of the history of this place. We met up with our tour group and guide "Atar".  For the hundredth time on this journey I stated that I was not American, I really do need to stop wearing tramping shoes with shorts and lose more weight, and informed our guide that we are from Australia but are Nz'ders. This confused a lot of people, but it truly shoes our ANZAC relationship.

Atar took us to the top of the ancient city of Ephesus. We walked through ruins that were built in the 10th Century BC. It was amazing to think of the history that these ancient walls and pillars had seen. We toured through the ruins and stopped to talk about important facts. A few really amazed and challenged my view and understanding of the history of humans. One was the fact that a Roman statue was commissioned in the oldest most central part of Ephesus. This statue had a human figure, that of Trajan a Roman Emperor, standing with one foot on a spherical object. Historians believe that this object was an image of Earth. If this is to believed, then the Roman civilisation knew that the world was round centuries before Galileo who was born in 1564. I was amazed at that. However, there might be a reason why this knowledge had not been passed on through the subsequent centuries. The Library of Celsus that stood on the site, burned down after an earthquake in 262 AD. This library showed the passion that the Romans had for knowledge and understanding. The library held at its capacity before the devastating fire 12,000 scrolls. These scrolls contained information on technology at the time as well as the history of their period of humanity. With this fire, it effectively burnt the history of their time and we had to start again to gather this lost archive of information.

There is so much Christian history tied into this ancient city too. St Paul came to Ephesus to proclaim the news of Jesus Christ and to convert them to Christianity. To stand where he stood was an intense experience. St Paul tried to convert the city, the city expelled him, as they had built their entire city to the Pagan Gods and they were artists who created images of their Gods like Artemis. However St Paul proclaimed that there was one God and they shall not make images of false gods. This led him to be expelled from the large theatre. He worked with the congregation here in Ephesus to lead missionary activities. St Paul wrote the first letter to the Corinthians from Ephesus and he also wrote his letters to the Ephesians from his jail cell in Rome.

St John one of Jesus’s most trusted Disciples visited this area too. With him he had the Virgin Mary as she was entrusted to him after Jesus death. So when St John was on his way to Asia to proclaim the news about Christianity, Mary went with him. St John never made it to central Asia. He spent the rest of his days in Ephesus. There in Selcuk a few miles from Ephesus St John is buried. In the 6th century a basilica was created to entomb his tomb. There it stood for centuries. What remains now is a well cared for set of remains.

However, the Virgin Mary’s final home and resting place is lovingly cared for and a very sacred space. At the beginning of the 19th century, Anne Catherine Emmerich, a bedridden Augustinian nun in Germany, reported a series of visions in which she recounted the last days of the life of Jesus, and details of the life of Mary, his mother. Emmerich said “Mary did not live in Ephesus itself, but in the country near it. ... Mary's dwelling was on a hill to the left of the road from Jerusalem, some three and half hours from Ephesus. This hill slopes steeply towards Ephesus; the city, as one approaches it from the south east seems to lie on rising ground.... Narrow paths lead southwards to a hill near the top of which is an uneven plateau, some half hour's journey.”

After this was published, a French priest found this house in 1881. Then came about the restoration and archaeological dig to preserve this house. Nowadays this house is visited by Popes and other pilgrims from around the world. You cannot take photos inside the house but you can around it. This site is very well protected by Christians and Muslims alike. As the Virgin Mary is mentioned at length in the Holy bile as well as the Koran.

When I entered her house you could feel that you were in a very special place. You could feel the tension from other visitors as they all looked overawed by the sense of being close to Mary. You were able to move around her modest house and look at the adornment around the walls. The artwork and Images of Christ and Mary is amazing. As much as I would have loved to take detailed pictures inside this place, you knew deep within that that idea was not great. I went in as an excited and slightly intimidated individual and came out as a very emotional man who felt the connection of the location. in one room you could read the handwritten messages from Pope Benedict as well as a message from Pope Pius. I took the opportunity to take a candle and light it in honour of the loved ones in my life. I still cant get over the amazing experience it was to be in there.

Upon leaving the chapel/house you walked past taps of blessed Holy Water, I said a prayer and made the Sign of the Cross with the liquid and continued walking along the path down hill from her house. I stopped along the way to view the prayers left for Mary along a large wall made from ancient stones. Again it was quite an over powering moment. This was a true highlight of my journey.

To conclude, I have seen many different ruins from three major Roman/Greek/Ottoman cities this week. What I have truly appreciated is that Australia and New Zealand has very little non-indigenous history. TO stand in places that have witnessed the dawns of civilisations, the destruction of civilisations and the life and death of Christ has really imprinted something on my heart and psyche. Issues that affect us in the contemporary age are only a blip on the course of humanity. I think I need to stop and enjoy life more and think about the actions that I am responsible for. For as long as our Earth keeps turning we keep living. If a theatre can be preserved 2500 years after it was built, then what are we doing to stamp our mark on this part of our human story. Are we the humans who worked ourselves to the bone just to survive? or are we going to be the humans attributed with ruining the fine eco-logical balance that we delicately survive in? or are we going to be remembered as the humans who helped develop our young ones to be the true leaders and guardians of our history? I know that I want Lachlan and Brodie to grow up in a world where their life can be led in a safe way free from persecution, free from those who wish to control them and in a world where they feel empowered to make the best choices available to them and their future. I want our generation or humanity blip to be remembered as the ones who helped develop the new age of humans, our future generations, where they have rectified mistakes of the past and make choices to grow into humans who flourish and will be remembered in another 2000 years. 

ANZAC Day

Where to start… This has been the hardest post to write about. Not because I am short of ideas, but because there are different emotions tied into all of the thoughts and memories of the day.

The sense of grandeur and ceremony were truly present throughout the occasion. It was amazing to bear witness to it. The most memorable part of the whole ceremony would be the reflection time that we all had before the actual ceremony began. Hearing the stories of the old Diggers really made you feel like you were a part of it with them, as you can see what they mean about the landscape or weather etc. However the biggest tear jerker for me was watching the short film “The Telegram Man”. That was an amazing short film that featured some really good acting from famous Australian actors.

The ceremony was amazing, it was great to hear from our two Prime Ministers and the Prince of Wales as they were conveying their messages to the assembled guests. They all spoke with fondness to the ANZAC soldiers and the Turkish foe. The image of the foothills lit up will stay with me forever. It was such an amazing scene. You could see the enormousness of the taxk ahead of those soldiers.

After the ceremony we had the opportunity to walk up to Lone Pine or Chunuk Bair. The hills were steep, very, very steep. However, I made it up! The views were amazing, but their was a sense of reverence about the whole location. Bryan and I viewed every cemetery, looked at the names inscribed on the headstones as well as the ages of those killed. As a teacher of young adults, it is more than a little unnerving to see that a high percentage of those killed are only a couple of years older than that of my upper primary school aged students. 15/16/17 year olds felt compelled to sign up and die for their country. Would this happen in modern day, western society?

The Chunuk Bair ceremony was very moving. Hearing songs from New Zealand, sung by amazing singers as well as a choir of young students was heartening. You could definitely feel the energy present at the service. The crowd only numbered 2000 rather than the 8000 at Lone Pine. This made it feel all the more intimate and special.

We made it back to our hotel by 10.30, others had a much longer journey, arriving after 2.30 the next morning. It wasn't lost on me that I could get off the peninsular with relative ease, however the cost of the ANZAC’s leaving was a lot higher. It could have cost their lives.

It is hard to write about this day as there are still so many emotions and ideas floating around. I will recount more in person.

Awaiting ANZAC day

5 am and we are up and at um. Thinking back on this morning I am so pleased our tour had us up this early.

After a quick breakfast we loaded the bus and started the 4 hour journey to the Gallipoli peninsula. The landscape is so different to that of Australia or New Zealand.  There is a love of high density multi level housing here.  The quarter acre dream that we aspire to is not quite realized here.  The valleys and scenery we passed was very impressive.  The country is so green and inviting. We stopped for a break at a service station.  Here I experienced something new, having to pay for the use of a toilet! I reckon the guy who maintained the toilet loved today as he made about 180 lira from our 4 tour buses.  A good pay day for him.

After traveling through various checkpoints we made it to Gabe tepe. Here we waited, then waited and finally waited some more.  Although this sounds bad,  it actually wasn't. We got time to sit on the beach,  talk to people from our tour or catch up on some sleep. Eventually we were released to walk to ANZAC Cove.  We stopped at some of the Commonwealth cemeteries. These were especially moving. Seeing the names of soldiers,  their ages and where  they were from brought emotions bubbling to the surface.

Finally we made it to the main commemorative area.  Here we laid out our sleeping bags and attempted to get some sleep.  This was a lot harder than it looks as thousands of people were (and are) constantly arriving.

The time is now 1 am and there is  4 hours to go until the service starts.  We are currently sitting and listening to different documentaries and speeches from various secondary school students.

It is a little overwhelming to think that the space that us as visitors now occupyis just above thousands of brave men from both sides who are at eternal rest.

Kia Kaha and God bless all of those young men.

Ogling at Old Istanbul

Yesterday we had our first full day here, and what a day it was. I experienced the biggest range of emotions, from wonder at being in the oldest building in my life, to anguish about seeing one of the worst things in my life.

Yesterday started with a fantastic Mediterranean breakfast. I had my first and possibly last Turkish Coffee (was very sweet and very strong), and Bryan and I played the game of "What do you think this food contains?"All items had a unique taste. One thing that we have noticed about Istanbul, everyone always has a good breakfast, from little street cafes to all hotels offering a hearty breakfast to their guests.

Istanbul is very hilly, more so than we first expected. We have covered many kilometres up and down various inclines. However, you find gems along the way. Like yesterday, following the tramline (trams speed along and don't have obligations to stop at intersections or for people!) we came across the Hagia Sophia Museum. The Hagia Sophia translated means "Holy Wisdom". This is the third building of the Hagia Sophia. This one encompasses the two designs previously and builds upon them all. The history within the building is amazing. You can see the East Roman Christian Influence clearly. Paintings of Jesus adorn the walls, as well as portraits of John the Baptist and The Virgin Mary.

What was truly amazing was even in the 10th Century there were "Selfies". There were mosaics that consisted of Jesus being held by the Virgin Mary however they were also conveniently alongside others like the Emperor and Empress Komnenos and their son Alexios. What made it really interesting was the sign that stated the Emperor and family donated money to the Hagia Sophia. How much do you think it would cost now to be included in a selfie with Jesus?

The Hagia Sophia had amazing artworks and architecture. The mix between the Christian roots of its creation and the Islamic ties that now adorn it after the area was taken over following Fatih Sultan Mehmed’s (1451-1481) conquer in 1453 make it such an interesting place to visit. This mix eans the visitors who come to see it are from various cultures and religions as after the conquer Hagia Sophia was renovated into a mosque as it now stands today.

Following the experience of the Hagia Sophia, Bryan and I were treated to the truly cultural and traditional experience of Turkey. We were invited into a shop to buy a Turkish Rug.
The nice man who led us into his store, paid us both compliments and led us to the showroom. We were treated with apple tea and stories. After hearing that I was married, he turned his attention to Bryan. He offered him a carpet as well as a Turkish girl to marry. He even got the choice of what colour hair she had! However no deal was struck, all in good humour, Stav keeps her boyfriend Bryan; while all arranged marriage proceedings have been called off. To get out of the store, someone had to bite a bullet. It happened to be my wallet as I purchased a nice table runner, to go with our new table (Sara I really hope you like your gift!). This was probably the cheapest way out of a potentially stick situation.

The Grand Bazaar was the full on, not unlike the markets in Singapore or Thailand, there were lots of traders, selling various items. There was a lot of people and a lot of sales pitches. Most of the items repeated, however there were some interesting items for sale; like the traditional turkish instruments as well as various types of clothing. Bryan purchased a jacket, however to find one his size we had to venture into the showroom, this consisted of going behind the counter and climbing down to an underground area where you felt somewhat obliged to purchase. They were very helpful and friendly, as we both found out. When a particular style of jacket did not fit Bryan, one of the employees was off to a different location to get one. I too had an experience similar, where a pair of jeans I purchased were too long. The shop assistant ordered tea which arrived in a couple of minutes bustled in by some market orderly. While drinking the owner of the store took my pants to the tailors and had them all sewn up. Service with a smile!

The Spice market was amazing. All different smells and tastes. We purchased yummy Turkish Delight while sampling different teas and spices used in traditional cooking.

We feel we have walked most of the "Old Istanbul" by now. Even today we  found ourselves in a long walk by the sea side in a truly local community. Even the taxis were touting to pick us up, on we walked though. Eventually making it to the Blue Mosque. This was the first time I had been into an Islamic Temple. We followed all of the correct customs and politely and respectfully made our way through and marvelled at the architecture of such an old place of Worship.

We have seen so many great sites over the past two days, however I think I have seen one of the worst. It came to me as we were looking for somewhere to eat dinner, after 10.30pm. Walking along the main road we passed a young mother sitting on the footpath with her young (around 1 year old) child. This really got to me as they looked me straight in the eyes with their cold expression, they shouldn't be there. Money couldn't just fix this scenario though, as it was all around. It made me think of all of the wonderful things that we have in our society of Australia and New Zealand. We take for granted the social structures we have in place to assist us. In reality though, not everyone has access to this around the world. Seeing this young lady with her child made me think instantly of Sara in Bendigo with our two children Lachlan and Brodie. I would hate to see them in this situation. We have a lot of wealth in this world, but there is still desolation and poverty. Will this ever be fixed? Can it be fixed? Or in some people's view in relation to the spiralling population of this Earth, should it be fixed?

As a Catholic I believe Jesus lived and died for us to show us the way that we can be an ideal citizen of this world, He showed compassion and understanding for all around him. Much the same as in recent history our fore-bearers took up arms to protect what we hold most dear in our country, our freedom, our freedom to choose a life of our own, a freedom to help others and make something of ourselves. Those soldiers we commemorate in two days time (as well as others post WW1) paid the ultimate sacrifice to ensure that we had a right to freedom. My question is: how are we now repaying that favour?

Making our way to Istanbul

What a journey 23 hours after leaving Melbourne, Bryan and I have made it to our hotel.

This was my first trip to Europe. I know I was nervous about flying a long haul flight.  However not as nervous as the young lads we have ventured over here to remember. What it must have been like leaving Albany on the "Adventure of a lifetime". Their long trip on a troop ship must have been the longest those boys and girls (female nurses) must have been on.  I thought my 16 hour flight to Doha was bad.

However the first leg went well,  the landing left a bit to be desired though! Doha airport was amazing.  Very clean,  friendly and lots to see. The 4 hour stop over went so fast.

While there I took a couple of pics that reminded me of Melbourne on a hazy summer's day.

Our connecting flight to Istanbul went off without a hitch. Istanbul is a massive city. My expectations of a large city have been blown.

Talking about blown, the journey from Sabiha Gokcen International Airport to our hotel is one that will stay in my memory forever. I have never been in a vehicle that traveled so fast, never indicated and merged by pushing in to what ever gap on the freeway he wanted. 
The worst bit was,  every other driver on the road was doing the same! There is so much going on all of the time on these roads.  I thought the Bolte bridge in Melbourne was bad.

Everyone has a job though.  Even in a traffic jam, food and drink can be purchased.  There were these brave vendors who have food piled on long poles to feed truckies,  boxes of sweets and water could also be purchased.  The food available is amazing,  I imagine the first ANZAC's thoughts when they arrived in these distant ports. They would not have had previous experiences they could relate to.

Our transfer to our hotel got even worse at one point.  Our driver stopped and aid that he had a call from his office and he had to return. He pulled over and said that this guy will now take you to your hotel.  This appeared to be the start of a very real horror movie, starring me and my friend.  However we were not mugged, we were not injured,  what we were treated to was an exhibition of what a formula one driver can drive like.  Ross older Turkish gentlemen flew through the inner city streets, giving us advice about shops, traffic and how to deal with people asking for money on the streets.

He got us to our hotel with a minimum of tooting horns. Our journey from the airport to the hotel equated to 50 km and it took us two hours!  So all up from Melbourne to bed in a comfortable Istanbul hotel 23 hours.

This place looks sounds and smells so exciting,  the people that we have met have been so friendly. They know why we are here and they  respect our journey and we respect their country, culture and people. Just as the early ANZAC's respected their Turkish foe.

Karakia for Taonga

A Blessing

Kia hora te marino,

Kia whakapapa pounamu te moana,

Kia tere te karohirohi.

 May the seas be calm,

May the shimmer of summer Glisten like the greenstone,

Dance across thy pathway. 

Ma Io koutou e manaaki, e tiaki, i nga wa katoa. 

May your God bless you and protect you for all time.

This stone was carved by my friend and old Colleague Murray MacGibbon from Greymouth in New Zealand. He is an excellent carver and has honed his craft across the years. This stone is called the Totoweka- blood of the wekas. The red spots in it indicate the spiritual blood of the Weka.

You can see the red spots in it within this sun filled photo:

Carrying Ponamu, means carrying spirits. As I travel throughout Turkey, I will be travelling with the spirits of my friends, family and ancestors.

Murray MacGibbon (artist) is a carver who makes special pieces that you can purchase for yourself or as a koha for someone else.

Murray has a website that can be viewed here:

http://www.kiwistone.org

Kia Kaha
God Bless

Alistair Stewart

My privilege!

It is my privilege to be able to take with me a number of different items to leave on the battlefields of Gallipoli.

From the Sandhurst diocese,  I am taking an Indigenous Journey Stone, to represent the journey the soldiers of Central Victoria took to get to the shores of Gallipoli.

I am also carrying with me a crucifix from the diocese. The spirituality of the soldiers who fought in these battles was very high. There were a large number of Catholics. This crucifix helps us to remember their Christian faith

















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From St Liborius Primary School I am very excited and privileged to take with me two items that the Student Social Justice Team handed to me last Friday at assembly.

They were a set of Mary MacKillop Rosary Beads and a Journal.

All of the students and teachers at St Liborius Primary School have signed this Journal and some have written some very heart felt messages to the soldiers of Gallipoli.
Parents of our students have also written messages of thanks for the soldier's sacrifices. This is a very powerful item. There were so many soldiers who journaled their time at war. Now as they rest they have messages from us, grateful citizens of Australia and New Zealand 2015.